Across the Alley from the Alamo

The day after Thanksgiving I drove down to San Antone with my gonzo compadre Gilberto from a wonderful Thanksgiving in Arlington with my brother et al. We got a room at the historic Crockett Hotel across the alley from the Alamo and after a heavenly barbecue sandwich at the County Line on the Riverwalk, I sat down beside the Alamo and thought about that great battle which ended on March 6, 1836, the day the Alamo fell. No matter how many times I've been there, it always feels like sacred ground. The spirits of those brave men still reside there I believe. Some have speculated that surely there must have been buried treasure there for men like Crockett, Bowie and Travis to have defended it to the death as they did. But the treasure they were guarding was likely just a love of that place that was so strong that any notion of giving it up refused to be entertained.

March 6 is also my birthday so I have always felt a strong connection with the Alamo, having been born in San Antonio and lived there until I was 7. It always feels like home when I go back, even though I don't even know anyone there to call up anymore. But the past always seems to be present in San Antonio, not just at the Alamo, and over the years I haven't seen it change all that much. Sure there are more people here now, but the old neighborhood looks pretty much the same as it did 50 years ago. Casbeer's, "the Joint" as we called it, is now a hot little country/western dance club and restaurant. Good local and imported talent and they make wonderful enchiladas there, just like Mother used to make. I was glad to see they have a big star with Doug Sahm's name on it in the sidewalk in front of the door. He of Sir Douglas Quintet and Texas Tornados fame was also a native San Antonian and he and my brother took guitar lessons from my uncle Lloyd Hazelbaker, who played with Bob Wills for awhile. Alas Sir Doug passed away all too soon a few years ago.

The next day we made it to Joe's Hamburgers in time for Phyllis to make us a good ol' Texas burger with her secret sauce. Joe's has been there since about 1940 and Phyllis has been cooking burgers there since sometime in the 50's. They don't serve fries or anything else except burgers, and the only things she puts on it are her secret sauce and chopped onions. But the taste is like nothing I've ever had anywhere else. It's just a little shack on Blanco Road near Hildebrand but at least as long as Phyllis lives, it is truly the High Church of Hamburger!